Smash up the garlic with 1 teaspoon of salt in a pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin in a metal bowl). Place the egg yolk and mustard in a bowl and whisk together, then start to add your oils bit by bit. Once you’ve blended in a quarter of the oil, you can start to add the rest in larger amounts. When the mixture thickens, add lemon juice. When all the oil has gone in, add the garlic and any extra flavours (see above). To finish off, season to taste with salt, pepper and a bit more lemon juice, if needed.

Try this: Lemon -or basil- flavoured aioli is good with salads, all types of fish, and in seafood soups. It’s also great with roasted fish, chicken or pork, and is a classic with salmon.